Salicylic Acid, Licochalcone A
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Main findings
Salicylic acid is a powerful ingredient that helps keep blemish-prone skin clear by targeting clogged pores. It gently exfoliates, removes dead skin cells, and helps to clear out blocked pores, preventing future breakouts. The result is smoother, clearer skin with fewer blemishes.
Licochalcone A is a powerful antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and skin-soothing ingredient. It is derived from the root of the Chinese Licorice plant (Glycyrrhiza Inflata) which uses natural compounds to protect its cells from excessive sunlight. When used in skincare products, Licochalcone A works to reduce inflammation and neutralize free radicals that negatively influence skin cells and accelerate the aging process. It helps to protect the deeper epidermal skin layers from sun-induced effects.
What are post-acne marks (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation or PIH for short)?
PIH is a type of hyperpigmentation of the skin that is mainly triggered by the way skin regenerates after inflammation. It can affect the face and body, typically especially UV-exposed areas, and appears as flat spots of hypercoloration. These range in color from pink to red, brown or black, depending on skin tone and the depth of hypercoloration. The root cause is increased melanin production, the pigment that defines the color of a person’s skin, which is stimulated by inflammatory factors. The blemish triggers melanocytes – the melanin-producing cells – to release excessive melanosomes (pigment granules). The excessive pigment granules darken and discolor the formerly stressed area. Once initial blemishes have subsided, spots of hypercoloration, so-called post-acne marks, can remain.
Additionally, sun exposure can aggravate PIH symptoms, darkening the affected patches and prolonging the time it takes for them to fade. Most acne-related PIH will eventually fade over time, but it can take several years or even a decade until it is fully gone*.
*Abad-Casintahan, F. et al., “Frequency and Characteristics of Acne-Related Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation.” J Dermatol. 2016; 43:826–828.
Who is affected by post-acne marks?
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation is common among many acne sufferers since a root cause for acne is inflammation. Those post-acne marks left behind after blemishes subsided can be even more aggravating and emotionally distressing than acne itself. Men and women are equally susceptible, and all skin types can get post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, although it is more prevalent in darker tones of skin, with over 65% of the Black Americans experiencing it, followed by 53% of Hispanics, 47% of Asians and 25% of Caucasians*. This means that we need effective and tolerable skincare fighting both blemishes and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation for consumers all over the world.
* Kaufman et al., Am J Clin Dermatol. 2018; 19:489–503, Perkins et al., JEADV. 2011; 25(9):1054–1060.
How can post-acne marks be prevented?
PIH is mainly triggered by the way skin regenerates after an inflammation. To prevent it, though there are no guarantees, avoid picking at or pressing your pimples. The best prevention is, however, to target acne-related PIH at the root, meaning preventing blemishes from appearing and getting inflamed. Use a mild but effective cleanser and use light, non-comedogenic skincare with anti-inflammatory ingredients, like licochalcone A and keratolytic salicylic acid, which are used in our Eucerin® Dermopure Triple Effect Serum to prevent pores from clogging. Additionally, sun exposure can aggravate PIH symptoms, so we recommend sun protection. Limit the time you spend in the sun and keep out of the sun during its most intense hours. Wear protective clothing and sun hats whenever possible and apply a sun protection factor of at least 30, to protect marks from darkening and help prevent new marks from appearing by using specialized skincare like Eucerin® Dermopure Protective Fluid SPF 30.
What is so special about Thiamidol?
Thiamidol is an exclusive and patented active ingredient developed during a 10-year research project. It reduces post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation by addressing the root cause, the production of melanin in the skin. Many known ingredients have undergone testing on mushroom enzymes alone rather than on human skin enzymes. The efficacy of Thiamidol in our Eucerin® Dermopure Triple Effect Serum has been demonstrated in real-life testing. Clinical trials* and other responses have shown that our formulation effectively reduces post-acne marks.*Clinical efficacy study, 12 weeks, 2× daily use, 40 female and male patients, 18–40 years of age.
Beyond Thiamidol, what makes the DermoPure Triple Effect Serum so effective on blemish-prone skin with post-acne marks?
In addition to Thiamidol to reduce persistent post-acne marks and prevent their appearance, it contains salicylic acid to reduce blemishes as well as licochalcone A to prevent new blemishes from appearing. Thanks to the sebum regulation technology, the formulation leaves the skin with a long-lasting, matte and non-shiny look. In addition, the serum is non-comedogenic and has a decidedly light feel on application.
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